FISH-ON-THE-BRAIN: Bahia de Los Angeles, Baja, Mexico

Bahia de los Angeles or the Bay of Angels is a fisherman's paradise.The tiny outpost of a town was hit hard by a hurricane in October and was still recovering basic services when we arrived in the second week of November. We stayed at Daggett's Campground which is an iconic home base for fishermen and kayakers who head out on multi-day trips to explore the surrounding islands. The town itself is unremarkable, but the waters offshore teem with wildlife and it is heralded as one of the most diverse ecosystems on the planet. The jewel is the bay, but the waters are not always inviting. Wicked winds blow in regularly and trap campers in sandstorms and keep kayakers stuck at sea for days on end from November to February.

On the calm days, we never missed a chance to get out on the boat and explore. There was a great deal of fishing, spearfishing and snorkeling during our time in Bahia de los Angeles. The girls caught barracuda, leopard grouper, spotted sand bass, trigger fish, and some unidentified types of fish during their time on the boat. They had strike after strike with barely a minute to relax before one or both of them yelled, "Fish on!" It was a fishing bonanza! They eventually got tired of the impressive bounty in our catch and release program and settled into eating Rancheritos (Spicy Mexican chips).

We had picnics on deserted beaches (some of which were infested with sand fleas, but the photos don't show that), snorkeled along rocky coves and Mark had great success with his new spear gun. He caught good sized leopard groupers and yellowtail. We feasted on fish tacos so often that the girls begged for anything but fish!

We spotted flying manta rays soaring up into the air, dolphins swimming in pods by the beach at daybreak and sea lions feeding along the rocky island outcrops. Baleen fin whales congregated in the bay to feed on masses of krill and whale sharks joined in the feast. (More details to come in the next post!)

Before you are feeling jealous, just remember that the photos show the good times. There were stretches of three days when we were literally trapped in our 26 foot camper with the four of us climbing the walls. Howling winds whip sand into your eyes, ears, nose and mouth. You are covered in a layer of dirt in a matter of minutes outside and anything not nailed down is airborne. All the garbage that gathers in bins or along the roadside is blown into camp. You have to remember that this is not your typical Canadian or American camping spot with electricity, water and bathrooms. This is a rustic (read rusty nails and shards of glass strewn about) kind of place. Mark even caught a scorpion the size of my hand on our last night to show the girls! This was after it had crawled between his feet while he was standing in the sand chatting with friends.

During our time there, we met wonderful fellow travelers who were kayaking, camping and traveling through the area. The diversity of travelers who are drawn to this beautiful and harsh landscape was inspiring. Everyone was friendly and open and ready to share their stories and their experiences. We left just as a new set of gael force winds were assailing the place, reminding us that with the beauty comes the undeniable forces of nature.

Our campsite at Daggett's